Apo Whang-Od Oggay: The Last and Oldest Kalinga Tattoo Artist

Apo Whang-Od Oggay, born on February 17, 1917, is a renowned tattoo artist from the village of Buscalan in Kalinga, Philippines. She is the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing and is celebrated for her skill and expertise. Whang-Od is part of the Butbut people, a subset of the larger Kalinga ethnic group. She began tattooing at the age of 15 and has been practicing the art form for over 90 years. Whang-Od’s tattoos are known for their symbolic meanings, rooted in Kalinga culture and history. She has gained international recognition for her art, including appearing on the cover of Vogue Philippines at the age of 106. Whang-Od has received numerous awards and honors for her contributions to Philippine culture and is a truly legendary figure in the world of tattooing.

Key Takeaways:

• Apo Whang-Od is a legendary Filipino tattoo artist from the village of Buscalan in Kalinga, Philippines.
• She is the last and oldest practitioner of traditional Kalinga tattooing, with over 90 years of experience.
• Whang-Od’s tattoos have symbolic meanings rooted in Kalinga culture and history.
• She has gained international recognition for her art and has received numerous awards and honors.
• Whang-Od’s contributions to Philippine culture make her a truly legendary figure in the world of tattooing.

Early Life and Training

Whang-Od, also known as Maria Oggay, was born on February 17, 1917, in the village of Buscalan within Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. Her father, a master tattooist, taught her the art of traditional Kalinga tattooing when she was just 15 years old. Traditionally, only men with special tattooing ancestry were allowed to learn the art, but Whang-Od’s exceptional talent and potential led her father to make an exception. She broke the patrimonial tradition of only male apprentices and became the first female tattoo artist in recorded Kalinga history. Whang-Od’s training included learning the traditional hand-tapped tattooing technique called “batok.” She started by tattooing Butbut headhunters and women, who traditionally earned tattoos from combat-related accomplishments. Today, she continues to practice traditional tattooing on both locals and tourists visiting Buscalan.

Technique and Style

Whang-Od practices the ancient technique of Batok, which involves using a mixture of charcoal and water as ink and tapping it into the skin using a thorn from a calamansi or pomelo tree. This tattooing technique passed down for generations, holds significant cultural and spiritual importance in Kalinga society.

Each tattoo design created by Whang-Od carries symbolic meanings specific to the mambabatok culture. For example, warriors who had killed enemies were given eagle tattoos, symbolizing their bravery and victories. Whang-Od’s signature tattoo, composed of three dots, represents herself and her two apprentices, symbolizing the continuity of the art form from one generation to the next. Her tattoos often feature designs inspired by nature and basic geometric shapes.

Tattoo Symbolism in Kalinga Tattoos

The traditional Kalinga tattoos created by Whang-Od are rich in symbolic meanings. These symbols reflect the cultural heritage and values of the Kalinga people, making each tattoo design unique and significant. Some of the common symbolic elements found in Kalinga tattoos include:

• Ancient patterns: Geometric patterns such as lines, triangles, and circles are often used to represent various aspects of nature, spirituality, and community.
• Animals: The inclusion of animals in tattoos, such as eagles and centipedes, symbolizes courage, strength, and protection.
• Plants and flowers: Floral motifs like ferns and rice stalks are often incorporated into tattoo designs to represent growth, fertility, and abundance.
• Textiles: Traditional Kalinga textiles, known for their intricate weaving patterns, inspire designs that showcase the community’s artistry and craftsmanship.

Whang-Od’s expertise in capturing these symbolic elements in her tattoos makes her work revered and cherished by those seeking a deeper connection to Kalinga culture.

Recognition and Awards

Whang-Od’s remarkable contributions to Philippine culture and her dedication to the preservation of traditional Kalinga tattooing have garnered her widespread recognition and prestigious awards. In 2018, she was honored with the esteemed Dangal ng Haraya Award by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) for her outstanding achievements. The award ceremony took place in Tabuk, the capital of her native province of Kalinga. This significant accolade celebrated Whang-Od’s invaluable role in safeguarding and promoting the rich heritage of traditional Philippine crafts.

In addition to the Dangal ng Haraya Award, Whang-Od was also nominated for the distinguished National Living Treasures Award, known as Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan, in 2017. This prestigious recognition acknowledges individuals who are recognized as living national treasures for their mastery of traditional Philippine craftsmanship. The NCCA is currently processing her nomination, highlighting the profound impact Whang-Od has had on preserving and reviving the invaluable art of traditional Kalinga tattooing.

Cultural Impact and Legacy

Whang-Od’s art and cultural legacy have had a significant impact both within the Philippines and internationally. Her dedication to preserving traditional Kalinga tattooing has helped raise awareness and keep the knowledge, tradition, and culture of Kalinga tattoos alive, especially among younger generations and those outside Filipino culture.

The practice of Kalinga tattoos was almost extinct before Whang-Od’s prominence, and she has played a crucial role in reviving and promoting its significance. Whang-Od’s influence has also extended beyond the Philippines, inspiring other practitioners, such as Lane Wilcken and Natalia Roxas in the United States, to advocate for the ceremonial tradition of batok and revive other traditional tattooing practices in different regions of the Philippines.

The growing interest in indigenous tattoos among Filipinos can be seen as a way to decolonize aesthetics and reconnect with their roots. By embracing and celebrating traditional tattooing, individuals are expressing their indigenous identity and reclaiming their cultural heritage.

Whang-Od’s remarkable skill and passion for preserving the art of traditional Kalinga tattooing have left an indelible mark on the world of tattooing and indigenous self-expression.

The Rebirth of Traditional Tattooing

• The practice of Kalinga tattooing was nearly extinct before Whang-Od’s prominence.
• Whang-Od’s dedication to preserving traditional tattooing has revived the art form.
• Youth and outsiders are now embracing Kalinga tattoos as a form of cultural expression.
• Other artists are inspired to advocate for traditional tattooing in different regions of the Philippines and beyond.

Accessing Buscalan and Getting Tattooed

Visiting Buscalan, the village where Apo Whang-Od resides, can be an exciting and adventurous journey. Located in the mountainous province of Kalinga, Buscalan offers a unique cultural experience and the opportunity to get a traditional Kalinga tattoo. However, reaching Buscalan can be challenging due to its remote location.

There are three common transportation options available to access Buscalan:

1. Private Car: Traveling by private car is a popular choice for those who prefer flexibility and independence. However, it is essential to ensure that the car has a full tank of gasoline, especially if coming from Manila or other distant locations.
2. Habal-Habal (Motorcycle Taxi): Another option is to take a habal-habal, a motorcycle taxi, from Bontoc, which is approximately 45 kilometers away from Buscalan. This mode of transportation allows visitors to enjoy scenic views during the journey.
3. Passenger Van: Travel agencies in nearby towns offer passenger van services to Buscalan. This option is suitable for those who prefer organized transportation and a hassle-free experience. It is advisable to check the availability and schedules beforehand.

Joining a group tour is another popular and convenient option for visiting Buscalan. Companies like Awra Adventures organize guided tours that include transportation and assistance throughout the trip.

Once in Buscalan, visitors must be prepared for a steep uphill hike to reach Whang-Od’s home located at the top of the mountain. The hike can be physically demanding, so it is important to wear comfortable hiking shoes and take breaks if needed.

Overall, accessing Buscalan requires careful planning and consideration of transportation options. Whether traveling by private car, habal-habal, or passenger van, the journey to this remote village is an adventure in itself.

Tattooing Process and Prices

To experience the ancient art of Kalinga tattooing by Whang-Od or her skilled apprentices, visitors must join a waiting list due to Whang-Od’s limited availability caused by her deteriorating health. The tattooing process itself is a meticulous and intricate practice that involves using a sharp twig to tap the ink mixture into the skin. Designs can range from small and simple symbols to more elaborate and detailed patterns, all of which hold significant cultural and personal meanings.

In terms of pricing, tattoos in Buscalan vary based on the size and complexity of the design. Generally, prices can range from 300php to 1,000php, providing accessible options for visitors with varying preferences and budgets. It’s important to note that visitors are typically offered a selection of predetermined designs to choose from, rather than requesting custom designs.

While Whang-Od primarily focuses on inking her signature three-dot design, her apprentices continue the larger tattoo work, ensuring that the art and tradition of Kalinga tattooing are carried forward.

Example Tattoo Pricing:

Accommodations and Homestays

When visiting the enchanting village of Buscalan, accommodation options are limited but offer a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the local community and culture. Residents provide homestays, allowing visitors to experience the authentic warmth and hospitality of the Kalinga people. It is advisable to make arrangements in advance to secure a homestay, as availability may be limited. By staying in a homestay, you can gain insights into the traditions, daily life, and customs of the Kalinga community, creating lasting memories of your journey.

Local guides are often available to assist visitors during their stay in Buscalan, ensuring a safe and memorable experience. Two trusted guides in the area are Ate Dolores and her daughter Leticia. They possess extensive knowledge of the village, its surroundings, and its cultural heritage. Ate Dolores and Leticia can provide valuable insights, accompany visitors on excursions, and help facilitate meaningful cultural exchanges.

Note: Prices are approximate and subject to change depending on the season and specific accommodation provider.

Other Attractions and Activities

While visiting Buscalan, there are opportunities for side trips to nearby attractions. Explore the beauty and cultural significance of the Banaue Rice Terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its stunning landscapes.

Additionally, depending on the timing of your visit, you may have the chance to experience local festivities and celebrations in Buscalan. Immerse yourself in the vibrant culture by participating in weddings or witnessing traditional dances.

Interacting with the locals and embracing the tranquil lifestyle of Buscalan can be rewarding experiences during your visit. Take the time to explore the surrounding natural beauty and engage in conversations with the friendly residents.

Precautions and Tips for Visitors

When traveling to Buscalan to visit Apo Whang-Od and experience traditional Kalinga tattooing, it’s important to take certain precautions and make necessary preparations for a smooth and enjoyable trip.

Physical Preparedness

The journey to Whang-Od’s home requires a steep hike, so it’s crucial to be physically prepared for the challenging climb. Make sure you are in good health and have the stamina to tackle the uphill trek.

Cash and Facilities

Keep in mind that there are no ATMs or credit card facilities in Buscalan. It’s advisable to bring enough cash to cover expenses during your stay, including the tattoo fee, accommodation, and any other purchases. Having cash on hand will ensure a hassle-free experience.

Food and Snacks

While there are limited dining options available in Buscalan, it’s a good idea to bring your own food and snacks. This way, you’ll have sustenance throughout your stay, especially during the hike and while waiting for your turn to get tattooed.

Essential Items

To make your trip more comfortable, don’t forget to pack essential items such as sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun, insect repellent to ward off bugs, comfortable hiking shoes for the trek, and appropriate clothing for the weather conditions.

By taking these precautions and making the necessary preparations, you’ll be well-equipped for your visit to Buscalan and have a memorable experience with Apo Whang-Od and the tradition of traditional Kalinga tattooing.

Connectivity and Communication

When visiting the village of Buscalan, it is important to note that there is limited connectivity and no network signal available. Visitors should be prepared to disconnect from the digital world and embrace an offline experience during their stay. This lack of connectivity can be seen as an opportunity to fully immerse oneself in the culture and surroundings, allowing for a deeper connection with the local community and the natural beauty of the area.

While there is no network signal in Buscalan, some homestays may have limited access to electricity, which can provide an opportunity to charge electronic devices. However, it is advisable to bring extra power banks or ensure that devices are fully charged before arriving in the village.

Interacting with the locals can be a rewarding experience, even if there may be language barriers. It is important to note that the majority of the community speaks a native language, with a limited understanding of Tagalog or English. Nonetheless, non-verbal communication, gestures, and respectful curiosity can bridge the gap and foster meaningful connections.

Drone Flying and Photography

Visitors interested in capturing the breathtaking natural landscapes and cultural richness of Buscalan through drone photography must be mindful of the community’s rules and regulations. It is important to obtain permission from the local chieftain or Kapitan before flying a drone within the village.

Respecting the community’s guidelines ensures a harmonious and respectful experience for both visitors and locals.

While some visitors have flown drones in Buscalan without facing any issues, it is always best to seek guidance and permission from local authorities. The use of drones within the village may require a fee or other considerations, as determined by the community.

Photography in Buscalan presents an opportunity to capture the beauty and essence of the village. The stunning natural landscapes, coupled with the vibrant community and its rich cultural traditions, make for captivating images. However, it is crucial to exercise respectful photography practices.

Always seek consent when photographing individuals to ensure their privacy and cultural sensitivity are respected.

Drone Permission and Guidelines:

• Obtain permission from the local chieftain or Kapitan before flying a drone in Buscalan.
• Respect the community’s rules and regulations regarding drone usage.
• Be mindful of any fees or considerations associated with flying a drone within the village.

Photography Guidelines:

• Practice respectful photography and seek consent when photographing individuals.
• Capture the natural beauty and cultural richness of Buscalan through your lens.
• Embrace the opportunity to document the vibrant traditions and spirit of the village.

Conclusion

Apo Whang-Od’s legacy as a legendary Filipino tattoo master and her unwavering dedication to preserving traditional Kalinga tattooing has had a profound impact on Philippine culture and beyond. Through her exceptional skill and expertise in the ancient art of Batok, she has played a crucial role in reviving and promoting traditional tattooing practices, fostering a deeper appreciation for indigenous self-expression and the decolonization of aesthetic norms.

Visiting Buscalan and having the opportunity to be tattooed by Apo Whang-Od or her apprentices is a truly unique experience that allows individuals to connect with their Filipino heritage and witness the living legacy of this remarkable artist. It provides an intimate glimpse into the rich tapestry of Filipino culture and the significance of traditional tattooing within Kalinga society.

As Apo Whang-Od enters the later years of her life, her contributions to the preservation of traditional tattooing will continue to inspire and educate future generations. Her artistry and dedication have not only revived interest in traditional Kalinga tattoos but have also sparked a broader cultural appreciation for indigenous practices and the importance of preserving cultural heritage.